Before I got my first bearded dragon, I was told that they were the 'dogs of the pet world' and that I could expect nearly as much companionship from my beardie as I could from a dog. I wasn't sure what to think about that at the time, but I did come to find that to be an accurate statement, minus the pet hair problem.
Now that I think back on the advice that prompted me to research and learn about this new pet idea, I am also reminded of all the incorrect information that I was given as I became a new bearded dragon owner. Shocking as it is to me, some of the worst information came from the PetStores. I like to call them 'PetStores' so people realize that I am talking about the general pet stores that have Pet---something in their names: PetSmart, PetCo...PetSupermarket. Please, please do not purchase any reptiles from those stores. Often you will receive a reptile that has not been treated properly and will become sick and die, or you will not be given sound husbandry and care information, and you will probably unintentionally neglect or kill your new pet as a result. Please purchase your reptiles from a reputable reptile shop, or from a quality breeder. In the long run, you will enjoy your pet more and the whole experience will be better if you avoid the PetStores.
A bearded dragon is a special lizard of the family Agamidae, which is a large family of over 300 lizard species. Most of these species are considered 'dragons' of some type, and very few are kept as pets. Two examples of agamids are the bearded dragon and the uromastyx. Agamids are ground-dwelling, rock-dwelling or arboreal. The bearded dragon is rock-and-ground dwelling and they are found in the arid, scrub regions of Australia. They are not sand-loving desert creatures as many assume, so they will not do well with sand in their tanks. In the wild they are not found slogging through inches of sand, so do be careful not to make them do that in your home! Fine sand particles can get into their eyes, mouths and vent and cause sores which may need veterinary care and/or cause blindness or impaction. Please do not use loose substrates with your dragon.
Now that I think back on the advice that prompted me to research and learn about this new pet idea, I am also reminded of all the incorrect information that I was given as I became a new bearded dragon owner. Shocking as it is to me, some of the worst information came from the PetStores. I like to call them 'PetStores' so people realize that I am talking about the general pet stores that have Pet---something in their names: PetSmart, PetCo...PetSupermarket. Please, please do not purchase any reptiles from those stores. Often you will receive a reptile that has not been treated properly and will become sick and die, or you will not be given sound husbandry and care information, and you will probably unintentionally neglect or kill your new pet as a result. Please purchase your reptiles from a reputable reptile shop, or from a quality breeder. In the long run, you will enjoy your pet more and the whole experience will be better if you avoid the PetStores.
A bearded dragon is a special lizard of the family Agamidae, which is a large family of over 300 lizard species. Most of these species are considered 'dragons' of some type, and very few are kept as pets. Two examples of agamids are the bearded dragon and the uromastyx. Agamids are ground-dwelling, rock-dwelling or arboreal. The bearded dragon is rock-and-ground dwelling and they are found in the arid, scrub regions of Australia. They are not sand-loving desert creatures as many assume, so they will not do well with sand in their tanks. In the wild they are not found slogging through inches of sand, so do be careful not to make them do that in your home! Fine sand particles can get into their eyes, mouths and vent and cause sores which may need veterinary care and/or cause blindness or impaction. Please do not use loose substrates with your dragon.
From hatchling to adult there are only a few sized tanks that are appropriate for the bearded dragon. When they are quite small, under 14" in length, they should be housed in their 'starter home' or a 20 gallon long tank. As they approach 14" in length or approximately 6 months old, they should be moved to a 40 gallon breeder tank, or a custom built 4x2x2 enclosure, where they can comfortably be housed for the rest of their lives...alone. Yes, alone. Bearded dragons do not appreciate company and should be housed alone. They do not need a 'friend' and are not bored while you are not home. Your bearded dragon will crave your attention, and the rest of the time he will be very happy that he is the King of his own Kingdom. Bearded dragons are routine-oriented creatures and can suffer stress from being moved into a new home, called 'relocation stress.' They can also suffer some of this stress when their cage furnitures are rearranged. For this reason it is recommended that you keep their homes as much the same as you can to avoid this stress.
You will need to set up two distinct 'zones' or 'sides' of the enclosure: the hot side and the cool side. The hot side will have the bright basking/heat light and a UVB, and a flat rock, large brick or paver directly under the center of the basking bulb. This will be where your dragon will spend the majority of his awake time: basking in the 'sun' as they would in their native Australia. The temperature under this basking light, on the paver or basking spot, should be between 100-105*F for an adult dragon, and between 105-110*F for a baby dragon under 6 months of age. I try to keep my basking temperaturs as close to 105*F as I can and I check this temperature weekly or if there is a sudden change in temperature. UVB lighting is extremely important and a new bulb should be used every 6 months. We use the ReptiSUN 10.0 which fits in a T8 fixture. Another excellent bulb is the Arcadia 12% d3 Desert Species light, which we have heard in the T5 size gives a more consistent UVB output than even the ReptiSUN. They also make the Arcadia in the T8 but it is not considered a high output and would be comparable to the ReptiSUN.
Always use bright white basking lights for your dragon. ZooMed and other companies make reptile basking lights which have a reflector inside that concentrates the heat down into a spot, rather than allowing it to radiate out of all sides of the glass bulb. You can also purchase lights at a home improvement store as long as you are able to find flood lights in the right wattage. There are 'daylight' bulbs that have Neodymium coating inside the bulb that help our eyes see more of a 'true' daylight spectrum, but these bulbs are for human use and are not tuned to the reptilian eye. If you use one of these 'daylight' Neodymium coated bulbs, your dragon's home will look too dark for him and this will affect his behavior and energy. Never use colored lights in your bearded dragon's home. Research into the eye structure of the dragon shows that they see color and they see spectrums of color that we cannot see, and they use UVA light patterns to identify their food and also each other. Artifically altering the color spectrum of the visible light in their homes is bad for their well-being and can negatively affect their appetite, mood and sleep.
Bearded dragons should be allowed a drop in night time temperatures as the weather cools, and as long as their night time temperatures do not drop below 65*F, you will not need any additional night time heat. If your night temperatures do drop below 65*F you will need to purchase a ceramic heat emitter. Ceramic heat emitters should always be screwed into a fixture that has a ceramic base, which most of the commercially available reptile fixtures should have. They should never be mounted inside of an enclosure and should always have a screen or wire cage in between the emitter and the reptile to avoid serious burns.
Humidity is an important part of your bearded dragon's care that you need to be aware of. Bearded dragons are from an arid (dry) enviroment and cannot survive in high humidity. Respiratory infections are common in rescued bearded dragons, as they have not had proper care and suffered neglect. A respiratory infection can be fatal if not caught early! As a rule, keep the humidity inside of their enclosure below 38%. In my home a humidity level of 40% is a sign to take action to lower it, and 50% humidity is an emergency. If your humidity is ever approaching 50%, please invest in a dehumidifier. Do not keep fish or turtle tanks in the same room as your bearded dragon, as these items will elevate the humidity of the room. Use a digital hygrometer to measure the humidity; they are often a componenet of the digital thermometer, so if you can find a multi-function thermometer it will be more convenent. We use the Acu-Rite. And remember - your bearded dragons breathe at night, too. Check your night time humidity, as this is often higher than during the day, and take appropriate action if it is too high.
Humidity problems are one reason that bearded dragons will often not have a water dish. It is extremely rare for a bearded dragon to see his water bowl as a 'pond' since the water does not move, and for this reason it is advised to give them two soaks or baths per week, both to help keep them hydrated and also to keep them clean. Use warm water such as you would prepare for a baby's bath, and have the water level just to the dragon's armpit or bottom of the stomach. If you have water with metals or chlorine, use a few drops of water conditioner specially designed for reptiles added to the bath water. The average beardie bath should last 15 - 20 minutes, and after the bath the dragon should be dried off extremely well and be allowed to further dry under his basking heat light for at least 2 hours. Yellow Fungus is a fatal and invasive disease that can manifest itself on the skin of dragons kept in wet conditions or not dried properly after their baths, so please make sure your dragon is allowed to dry properly after the bath. Please see the Caring for Baby Dragons page for specific hydration information for babies.
Bearded dragons should have a 'hide' on the cool side to allow them a place to sleep and to get out of the sun if they wish. Some dragons will go into their hides to sleep every night, while others will use the hide when they feel like going to sleep early, or for a mid-day nap. I have some dragons that never use their hide until winter when it is time for brumation, and other dragons who will curl up in their hides each night.
Bearded dragons should not have any loose substrates in their enclosure, period! Don't get duped by the Calci-Sand and Vita-Sand and Crushed Walnut Shell substrates that you see sold in the PetStores. There is no truth in advertising for pet products, meaning the companies can be as misleading as they wish and the only fool is YOU! There is absolutely NO loose substrate that is safe for bearded dragons, not even washed play sand, which can get in their eyes and cause infections and blindness. Fungus such as yellow fungus can grow in these nasty substrates which are hard to clean, possibly infecting your dragon. Safer substrate choices are non-adhesive shelf liner, paper towels, reptile carpet, newspaper or tile. Impaction from loose substrates accounts for the death of countless bearded dragons each year, as they have an extremely sticky tongue and can ingest sand particles with every bite. Don't make a rookie mistake with the substrate only to regret your decision later. While impaction can be surgically treated, it is often not caught early enough resulting in the death of the animal.
Bearded dragons shed a thick skin as they grow, and they will shed less often as they age. Babies seem to shed constantly and often will have at least one body part in shed at one time, only to have a different part in shed the next week. Normal scale and leatherback bearded dragons should not require any shedding help, so don't be tempted to pull the shed from them prematurely, as the scales under the shed may not be ready to be exposed. Bathing your dragon twice a week as recommended will help them shed easier and will give you and a very soft toothbrush an opportunity to gently work on some of the shed. Remember, if it does not come off easily, then it was not ready to be removed. Often, the thick shed on the head and face can be painful to the dragon and during shed they may go through a period of not eating or apparant depression. This should clear up in a few days as they shed and is often not anything to worry about. Clearly if you are ever worried about your dragon you should bring it to a qualified reptile vet for an opinion. Make sure at the end of every shed cycle that your dragon's tail tip and toes shed completely so they don't become strangulated with dry shed. Toe and tail rot is often caused by stuck shed, so be sure your dragon gets frequent soaks during shed time.
Please check back for upcoming sections on Caring for Baby Dragons, as they have some specific instructions that are different from older dragons.